Tasmania: South Coast Track walk.

This walk has got it all: beach, mountain, mud, waterfalls, bush, wildly varying weather and very few people. The south coast track in Tasmania, a remote wilderness walk that was created as a route for stranded boaties to escape back to safety. Only about 100 people a year walk on this track, so it is a privileged, private experience. I nearly had to cancel due to a gall stone attack. The marvels of modern medicine enabled me to walk just under 3 weeks after the operation.
At the trail head.
The map we used was "South Coast Walks 1:100 000" available from Southwest National Park office. The book: South West Tasmania by John Chapman ISBN 978 1 920995 03 4 was used as an invaluable reference. The author has an informative web site - http://www.john.chapman.name/.

Planned Itinerary:
  • Melaleuca to Point Eric 3 to 4 hrs
  • Point Eric to Louisa River. 5-7hrs.
  • Louisa River to Little Deadmans. 7 –10 hrs.
  • Little Deadmans to Prion Beach crossing 2 1/2 to 3hrs
  • Precipitous Bluff day trip (did not eventuate, not enough time)
  • Osmiridium Beach to Granite Bay.
  • Granite Bay to North Cape
  • North Cape to Cockle Creek
    Cockle Creek bus leaves 11:00 am on M, W, F, S, S.
Google Map Overview.
Zoom out a bit, look north of Cox Bight to the body of water directly above (Bathurst Harbour) Follow Melaleuca to Cox Bight, New River Lagoon, coastline to South Cape Bay then to Cockle Creek (Recherche)..
http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=-43.527642,146.580963&spn=0.457023,1.056747&t=p&z=11&vpsrc=6&lci=com.panoramio.all


View Larger Map

The Trip

Day 1 Thursday 18 Feb 1999 - Hobart to Melaleuca, walk to Point Eric

We arrived at the airport. Are we all going to fit in ? Doctor Who's Tardis, no large jet planes where we are going. Ah! two planes, one for the packs and the other we all squeeze in.

Adventure begins... as we were flying, the flight path had to be diverted. Due to heavy cloud, instead of flying directly over the Arthur Range, we had to fly out towards Lune River and along the shore line. This was an unexpected but pleasant diversion.

We were fortunate to view the entire track, and aside from the cloud over the ranges, the day was clear. The the flight was a little choppy, but not too bad once over the sea and the landing was smooth, with great views of Bathurst Harbour.

Plane.
On arrival we looked around, finding the bird hide, miner’s cottage and boat dock. We even managed to catch a glimpse of the rare orange bellied parrot.
Bird hide.
Our first camp site is at Point Eric. This is scheduled to be a short walk of around 3 hours. The terrain was flat and walking rapid with assistance of occasional boardwalks. The weather was a bit drizzly but nothing to dampen our spirits. No shortage of water here either with plenty of freshwater streams along the way.
The trail ahead
We arrived at Fresney Lagoon / Cox Bight in good time. The tide was out and the sand hard. It was more easy ambling to Point Eric.

We wanted to climb Point Eric, but the shrubbery was too dense. Tried a fishing in the surf and around the rocks but there was too much kelp and the water shallow. Quite few dead penguins washed up on the beach and pied oyster catchers were productive pulling out beach worms.

Day 2 Friday 19 Feb 1999 Point Eric to Louisa River Mouth.
Misty and rainy all day, walk through wet and muddy flat open plains, creeks and a couple of steep areas.

Muddy track.

The tracks leading to the ascent over Point Eric were wet and quite muddy in places, however as we ascended they dried as the track up the hill was comprised of sand and vegetation. On the way down a mini rainbow presented itself neatly arched over the track.

Rainbow
It took an hour to reach the beach, inland the tracks were boggy and rutted. Along the beach the walking was interrupted by a few streams, which fortunately were shallow. Going inland over Red Point hills going was slow with boggy marshes.

Faraway creek was tricky and we lunched before proceeding to contemplate the best way to cross it. We saw some people coming from the opposite direction who warned of hostile conditions: wind and rain on the Ironbounds.

Crossing the creek via a log.

We had another log crossing, this time more secure high over Louisa Creek on a log bridge with rope supports. Then there was more boggy marsh to contend with, eased by crushed white stone in places. We elected to camp near the mouth of the Louisa river as it was more appealing than the map designated camp site. 

At night we had a friend drop by, fortunately he wasn't one with an appetite for our food.

Nocturnal animal.

Getting to Loiusa River was thwarted somewhat with more swampy marsh, steep declines and wading. We stripped our trousers to keep as much of our gear dry, and were a bit amused at the size of the eels. After 7 hours of effort we finally managed to get to our camp site.

Crossing the creek via a log.
Day 3 Saturday 20 Feb 1999 Louisa River Mouth to Louisa Bay
We elected to have a fun day today. Mike tried to wade out to the island, without success, nearly drowning in the process (metaphorically speaking). It was quite choppy though and not an inviting prospect. I tried my hand at fishing and caught nothing but weed and rock.
Louisa River Mouth.
After some frolicking by the water, we left camp at 1:30pm . The climb out was easier than the one in. The weather drier and hence the ground a bit easier to contend with.  Around the mouth of Louisa there was plenty of tea tree to contend with - Richard fell into an unseen creek up to his neck whilst going though it.
River.
Once past the tricky bits the way eased due to board walks to the river. We camped in a beautiful forest location at the Louisa River, and there was a toilet on the east bank.
Camp by the river.
Day 4 Saturday 20 Feb 1999 Louisa River Bay to Little Deadman's Bay.
The Ironbounds, Little Deadman's ; I think I know what is ahead. Hard yakka. The timing for this trip is 7 to 10 hours. We struck out early at 6:30am, and that is what it took, the best part of the day. A tough bit of walking over hill, mud and scrub. All worth it, the adventure, spirit and all. The Ironbounds, a steep climb, great panoramic views for about 1/2 the journey, then the journey down was steep, wet and muddy. Much leg work with tree roots to climb in and out of. I would not want to break a leg here.
Steep descent.
Break a leg did I say ? We heard helicopters buzzing round over the sea, and then discovered a party on the beach whose member had a  broken leg. It just so happened that they had an EPIRB and activated it. The choppers were over the sea expecting a vessel in distress. Might have to invest in one of those.

The Ironbounds is tough !  But the gain is a refreshing (ie very chilly) rinse in the sea at the end of the traverse.

rinse in the sea.
Day 5 onwards
The rest of the trip hugs the beach. It wasn't that easy though, as the track runs up and down sea cliffs and crosses creeks.  
The sea from up high.
We had fun at Prion Beach using the boats to cross the river, basically you cross the river in one boat with the gear and couple of others, then tow the other back and cross it with the remaining crew.
Boat for crossing the creek.
Rob and his walking stick. We were walking on a knife ridge and Rob was tapping away with his walking stick. Then Rob disappeared. He leant on the stick with a hollow foundation and toppled over. Lucky he wasn't hurt as he tumbled through the shrubs for about 5 metres.
Rob and his walking stick.
The waterfalls. Some very pleasant beach side falls which gave us a welcome rinse and facility to clean our somewhat smelly clothes.
Rob and his walking stick.
Cockle creek, our destination, is a pleasant town. The bus ride back to Hobart also very pleasant with the rolling scenery and amiable driver. He even took us to a "fisherman's" chippery - served the largest and what we regarded at the time the tastiest fish and accompanying chips. (pity I didn't write the name of this place down as sometime I'd like to go back to check my taste buds). He also popped in to visit a friend's apple farm which unfortunately is suffering from lack of business (I can't believe such crispy and tasty apples are failing to sell - the perils of running a small  business and the fight you have with big business interests )

And so the trip concludes. I can't wait for the next adventure.

Walking on the beach.
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